These instructions pertain to the Ultimaker 2GO. For other UM2 and UM2+ models, see the main article.
Changing an electronics board in your machine might seem a bit daunting at first. Although the instructions are very specific and need to be followed exactly, they are straightforward and require no previous knowledge. Please read each step completely before beginning.
- 2mm allen key (the middle-size from your accessory bag)
- Small flat head screw driver
1. You will first need to remove the L-shaped cover that sits in the back right corner inside your printer. It pops in and out of place. Remove the cover while the bed is down to avoid damaging the cover or panels.
2. In order to get to the remaining screws, you will need to raise the bed. There are two ways to manually raise the bed. You can pull up on the bed with fingers under each side of the bottom silver plate, or you can twist the screw at the back.
3. Unplug your printer and carefully lay it on its back. You may want to lay it on a piece of clean cardboard or a soft cloth to avoid scratching the panel. Laying the printer on its back will not damage the standard feeder. If you have a modified feeder, you will want to lay it on its left side instead.
4. To access the board, you have to remove the cover located on the bottom of your printer. The screws for the cover go down through the bottom panel and are secured with lock nuts. You can hold them in place with a finger as they sit in cut-outs designed to keep them from turning. Do not unscrew the board yet. You may see a black rectangle (ferrite core) secured around some of the wires on the left side. One side will have a latch that pops into place. Open the ferrite core and place it off to the side. We will need that again later.
5. Some of the wires are easier to remove from the board while it is still secured to the bottom panel. Some are easier to remove after the board is detached. You're going to remove the plugs for the four motors (on the left side) and the plug for the back fan (blue/orange in middle). All four motor wires look the same. Label them as you unplug them (starting at the bottom: X, Y, Z, E). Don't worry if you forget, we can figure out which cord corresponds to which motor by tracing where they come from when we reconnect the cords later.
Label the flat cords in EXP1 and EXP2. You can wait to remove them until the board is free which will give you a little more room to maneuver.
6. Now it is time to remove the board from the bottom panel. There are four screws that go down through the bottom panel to secure the board. There are no nuts on the underside for you to hold. One screw is located below the extruder motor. It is possible, though difficult, to remove this screw with the allen key without removing the motor. You may remove the motor if you need to. If you do remove the motor, follow the instructions for reassembling it when you are finished replacing your electronics board. When you have removed the board, you will have four loose black spacers. Place these to the side.
7. Due to the lengths of the various wires, you will not be able to move the board very far. Unplug the wires carefully to free the board. Leave the heater wires in the green block in place. Remove the two black pieces (jumpers) in slots SAFETY1 and SAFETY2. To remove the heater wire, you must engage the spring mechanism which holds the wire in place. To engage/disengage the spring, press down on the orange part with a flat screwdriver. Remove wires while the orange piece is depressed. Your board should now be free of wires.
8. Orient your new board so that green blocks are on the bottom left and the power switch is along the bottom edge. Insert the heater wires into the bottom green block labeled HEATER1. Each wire has its own hole. Make sure the bare wire is completely in the block, but do not insert black insulation. If the insulation is caught in the block, the heater will have a bad connection and will not heat.
9. Plug the 2 jumpers into SAFETY1 and SAFETY2. Make sure the piece is securely on both metal prongs. It does not matter which side of the jumper is facing the board.
10. Next, secure the board to the bottom panel. Use the four longest screws (20mm). Put the bottom two screws through the panel, add a spacer to each screw, and get them started into the board. Then start the top two screws, remembering to again add spacers. Be careful not to bend the board. Tighten all four screws.
11. It's time to plug in the wires. We'll start on the bottom of the right side. Due to the position of the board, the label for each port is located directly below the port and is upside down. The first connection is labeled FAN PWM. The wires are green and yellow. Carefully plug this in. The second connection is LED PWM. The wires are red and black and come down from the front panel. Next are SAFETY 1 and SAFETY 2. We have already plugged the black jumpers into these ports. X-STOP, Y-STOP, and Z-STOP are next.. Let's start with X (blue wires). Plug these in. Continue with Y (the red wires) and then Z. The Z (black wires) come from the left side of the board. The ANALOG spot is empty. Plug the blue and orange wires into FAN 5V directly to the left of the ANALOG port. The plug with the white and red wire goes into TEMP 1. TEMP 2 and TEMP3 remain empty. Earlier we labeled the flat cables 1 and 2. Plug them into the corresponding ports for EXP1 and EXP2.
On the left side, the heater wire should already be inserted into the green block. The wire motors go in the ports above. Starting closest to the green blocks, plug in X, Y, Z, and E1. E2 remains empty. If your motor wires are unlabeled, we can trace them from the origins. There are two motor wires that come through on the right side. Move one of these wires while looking at the back right inside the printer. You are looking for the wire that is attached to the top motor. This is the X motor. There are two motor wires coming from the left side. Follow the wire that comes down from inside the printer and goes under the motor block next to the board. This is the Y motor. The remaining wire on the left side (which comes directly from the motor block) is the Z motor. The remaining wire on the right side (which is attached to the lower motor inside the printer) is the E1 motor.
12. The ferrite core will go around all four motor wires. Place all four inside the open core. Snap the core closed while ensuring that no wires are pinched. The ferrite core will need to be positioned above the Z motor in order to put the cover back on.
13. Replace the cover. First insert the tabs into the back panel, then hold the cover in place. Watch the motor wires to avoid pinching. Secure the cover with the three remaining screws (12mm).