Installing a Heated Bed Cable (UM2/UM2 Extended)


  1. With the bed lowered, remove the left corner cover. One screw is located on the left panel. The other is located on the back panel. Take the cover out of the printer.
  2. Raise the bed and lay your machine on its back. To avoid damage to the panel, you may want to set your printer on a clean piece of cardboard or a towel.
  3. Remove the two screws that hold the electronics cover on using the 2mm allen key. You will need to hold the two lock nuts (visible on the underside) with pliers or a nut driver. Take the cover off.
  4. You will have to take the electronics board off the bottom panel in order to replace the heater cartridge wires. Because the flat cable that goes from the display to the electronics board is so short, it's best to disconnect them. The ports are labeled EXP1 and EXP2. Make sure the cords themselves are labeled correspondingly so they get plugged in correctly when you are done. Remove the four screws holding the electronics board. Each screw has a black spacer on it. Collect them and put them safely aside.
  5. Unplug the wire in TEMP 3.
  6. Now you disconnect the old heater cartridge. There are three green terminal blocks on the right side of the board; the bed heater wires are grey (or blue and brown). They are plugged into HEATED BED. Depending on which version of the board you have, you may have flathead screw terminals for the connectors, or a spring loaded  connection. If the top of the green terminal block is silver, it's a screw connection, if it's orange, it's spring loaded. The most recent boards have orange spring loaded connections; to open it, push down on the orange part with a flat head screwdriver and pull the wires out. 
  7. Gently set the machine upright again, being careful not to damage the board. Push the bed to the bottom. Remove the two screws that hold the black clip securing the cord to the thick metal base plate of the bed. Pull the black bed cable up through the bottom panel. 
  8. Undo the three thumscrews holding the heated plate to the base plate. Once it is free, remove it from the printer.
  9. Using a small flat-head screwdriver, unscrew the cord from the heated plate. The screws will not come out of the block 
  10. If you are holding the plate so that you can see the underside and the connector block is at the top, the thin wires on the new cord go in the right two openings.The thicker wires go in the left two. Once the cords are fully seated, tighten the screws back down. 
  11. Reinstall the plate. The thumb screws should stick up just above the base plate. There should be a spring on each. Start with the back screw in the middle. Get it started into the thumb screw.
  12. On each of the front corners, place a glass clip between the spring and the upper heated plate before starting the screws. 
  13. Once the plate is in place, tighten the back screw until the connector block is 2mm from the base plate. (You can see by looking in the gap between the two plates)
  14. Replace the black cable clip. 
  15. Curl the cord over and then under and back before feeding it down below the printer. Turn the printer on its back again.
  16. Plug the new heater wire in. Feed the wires under the board so they will be on the outside of the board when it is reattached to the bottom panel. The spring must be depressed in order to insert the new heater cartridge wires. When you put the new wires in, make sure the insulation is not in contact with the inside of the terminal block. The metal of the wires needs to have a solid contact.
  17. Plug the temp sensor in to TEMP 3.
  18. Now we can put the board back on the printer using the four longest screws (25mm) and the four black spacers. Start with the bottom two screws. Place them through the front panel and put a spacer on each one. Lift the board so the power switch is at the bottom. Carefully place the board so that the power switch, cable terminal, and the power cord terminal set neatly in the cutouts on the back panel. Make sure none of the wires are pinched under the board and that the only wire that goes between the board and the panel is the blue/orange one. Get the bottom two screws started into the posts. Then carefully do the same for the top screws and spacers. Avoid bending the board back. Before tightening all the screws down, set the board so that the bottom edge is flush with the back panel. Now tighten the screws.
  19. The flat cables on the left side that you removed earlier are not interchangeable, although they look the same. Plug the wire labeled 1 into EXP1, and the wire labeled 2 into EXP 2. The flat part of the connector goes toward the board. The part of the connector with the protrusion goes toward the panel.
  20. Put the covers back on. Let's do the one that goes over the board first. Make sure the flat cables (EXP1 and EXP2)  the LED wire (red/black) exit through the opening on the top left of the cover. Do not pinch the wires. There is an opening on the bottom right for the x-motor wire, z-motor wire, and z-stop wire. Do not pinch the wires. There are tabs on the cover that go into each of the three adjacent panels. Secure the cover with the larger of the screws you have left (12mm) and two locknuts which you will need to hold with pliers or a nut driver. You can stand your printer up now.
  21. Lower the bed and then put the corner cover in place. Using the two screws you have left (8mm), secure the cover (one screw in the side panel, one screw in the back panel).
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