Before you begin, make sure to remove your reel holder and filament from the back of the printer and unplug the machine. You should also remove your glass bed. If you're replacing the heated bed plate only, see the first set of instructions. If you're replacing the heated bed plate and cable, see alternate instructions.
Heated Bed Plate
Tools
- pliers or nut driver
1. Begin with your build plate raised. You can raise it by hand either by pulling up on the rear of the base plate on both sides, or turning the Z-screw by hand.
2. Remove the white plastic bed cable bracket screwed into the the bed plate at the rear-right side.
3. Unscrew the three thumb screws visible on the underside of your build plate and set them aside, along with the washers and springs. The washers between the bed plate and thumbscrew may come away with them, or may be stuck to the bed plate (there is copper grease on them). Don’t be alarmed. There may or may not also be thin springs inside the thumbscrews in addition to the larger outer springs, depending on when your printer was built. If your printer has both thin springs and larger ones, putting the thin spring inside the thumbscrew will make it easier to reassemble later.
4. Lift the bed and pull it out of the printer through the front panel, cord and all, being careful of the springs and glass clips. The front glass clips and all springs can be set aside.
5. Flip the plate over and tug carefully to remove the heated bed cable from the plate; the cables are held in place with push-fit connection and should come out when pressure is applied. If the cables do not come free with firm pulling on each one, it may be needed to loosen the pressure from the clips. using a small flathead screwdriver or similar tool, insert the tip inside the V-shaped clip and twist it very slightly. This will press the two halves of the clip further apart and loosen the pressure on the cable. Gently but firmly tug on the cable as you do this.
6. Using a pair of pliers or a nut driver, remove the lock nuts from the back of the bed plate so you can remove the rear bed clips and get them seated on the new bed. Slip the bed clips into place at the back of the new bed and tighten the lock nuts into place.
7. Take your new heated plate and flip it over so you can see the Ultimaker robot. Insert the heated bed cables into the new fittings on the new plate. When looking at the side of the plate with the Ultimaker robot on it (the underside) the two thin white-tipped cables should be on the left where it says PT100 and the two thicker gray-tipped cables should be on the right where it says 24V 7,5A.
8. Reattach the white plastic bed cable bracket into it's position at the rear-right side of the bed plate.
9. Place the new heated bed on the base plate, with the large springs sitting around the screws in the bed plate. Your front glass clips should be positioned between the heated plate and the springs.
10. Insert the thumbscrews (and their interior springs if you have them) from the bottom of the base plate, and turn them until the bed springs are at about medium tension.
11. Perform a manual leveling in the menu under System Build Plate Manual Leveling to ensure the bed is leveled evenly. Adjusting the thumbscrews may be needed during the guided leveling process. If after replacing the bed plate you receive an error during the Active Leveling process, please tighten the thumbscrews on the bed per the instructions here.
Heated Bed Plate and Cable
Tools
- 2mm hex head screwdriver
- pliers or nut driver
- ESD safe bracelet
1. With the bed lowered, remove the right corner cable cover. The cover is held in place with a push fit and should come out if pulled with a bit of force. Please set it aside.
2. Raise the bed by lifting it towards the back of the bed, or turning the Z-screw. Lay your printer on its side. To avoid damage to the panel, you may want to set your printer on a clean piece of cardboard or a towel.
3. Set the printer on its side or back for this next step. Remove the two screws that hold the electronics cover on using the screwdriver. To help hold the locknuts in place while removing the screws, press a fingertip against the bottom of the lock nuts if needed. Take the cover off and set it aside.
4. Unplug the wire in HEATED BED. Now you disconnect the old heater cartridge. On the left side of your electronics board is a rectangular, beige block. You should be able to tug this block out sideways, and then put pressure on the orange spring loaded connection to remove the existing heater wires from the block. Alternately, you can use a flathead screwdriver to press on the orange release tabs without removing the block. Go ahead and carefully pull the wires up through the inside of the printer.
5. Remove the white plastic bed cable bracket screwed into the the bed plate at the rear-right side.
6. Unscrew the three thumb screws visible on the underside of your build plate and set them aside, along with the washers and springs. The washers between the bed plate and thumbscrew may come away with them, or may be stuck to the bed plate (there is copper grease on them). Don’t be alarmed. There may or may not also be thin springs inside the thumbscrews in addition to the larger outer springs, depending on when your printer was built. If your printer has both thin springs and larger ones, putting the thin spring inside the thumbscrew will make it easier to reassemble later.
7. Lift the bed and pull it out of the printer through the front panel, cord and all, being careful of the springs and glass clips, and set it aside.
8. Using a pair of pliers or a nut driver, remove the lock nuts from the back of the bed plate so you can remove the rear bed clips and get them seated on the new bed. Slip the bed clips into place at the back of the new bed and tighten the lock nuts into place.
9.Take your new heated plate and flip it over so you can see the Ultimaker robot. Insert the new heated bed cables into the new fittings on the new plate. When looking at the side of the plate with the Ultimaker robot on it (the underside) the two thin white-tipped cables should be on the left where it says PT100 and the two thicker gray-tipped cables should be on the right where it says 24V 7,5A.
10. Thread the white cable through the white clip and hole on the right side of the base plate and place the new heated bed on the base plate, with the large springs sitting around the screws in the bed plate. Your front glass clips should be positioned between the heated plate and the springs.
11. Insert the thumbscrews (and their interior springs) from the bottom of the base plate, and turn them until the bed springs are at about medium tension.
12. Curl the cord over and then under and back before feeding it down below the printer through the hole in the corner; it should look like a backwards C.
13. Plug the new heater wires into the beige rectangular block where it says HEATED BED. You can either tug this block out sideways, and then put pressure on the orange spring loaded connection to remove the existing heater wires from the block. Alternately, you can use a flathead screwdriver to press on the orange release tabs without removing the block. The heated bed cables should be snuggly inserted in the terminal block.
14. Screw the white plastic cover for the electronics board back into place, putting the screws down through the bottom panel and into the locknuts on the cover. Be careful not to pinch any wires when repositioning the cover. There are notches in the electronics cover that allow wires to run through (one at the rear corner, one at the opposite front corner). There is also a recess in the back panel where a flat cable and other wires have room not to be pinched by the electronics cover.
15. Stand the printer back up. Lower the bed and snap the white right hand corner cover back in place.
16. Power the printer on and perform a manual leveling in the menu under System Build Plate Manual Leveling to make sure the bed is leveled evenly. You may need to adjust your thumbscrews during the process. If after replacing the bed plate you receive an error during the Active Leveling process, please tighten the thumbscrews on the bed per the instructions here.
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